How long should my ice axe be?

I am buying a new ice axe. How long should it be?

First of all, let's clarify one thing. We are talking about glacier travel axes, which range in size from about 60 cm up to 80 cm or more. Most people are using axes in the 60-64 cm range. Vertical ice tools, which are used in pairs are almost always 50cm.

Once you've decided on the type of ice axe you want, you need to choose the best length for your needs. In the good old days you would want an axe that would almost touch the ground as you held the axe by your side. Those were the good old days, though. With modern gear and techniques ice axes have become shorter and shorter.

How you will be using the axe, and your climbing system will help to determine how long your axe should be. In the good old days, we used to use the ice axe as a multi- purpose tool. It was not just used as a tool for climbing in the snow and ice, but also used like a walking stick, which is why they were sized so long. In the modern world we often use telescoping trekking poles for part of the climb, so we don't need the walking stick function of the ice axe as often. With trekking poles we tend to wait until the terrain gets steeper before there is a need to switch from poles to an ice axe. If you are going to use your trekking poles on lower angle slopes your ice axe can be shorter than the traditional length.

To size your new ice axe you should hold the axe diagonally across your torso, in the self arrest position. The head of the axe should be shoulder high and extened beyond the body. The spike should be held in the other hand, below the ribs and also outside the body. If the axe head and spike both reach beyond the body your axe will be long enough.

If you use your axe on lower angle terrain, you'll want something longer, so it will reach the ground when held at your side.

As with most things you'll fine tune the size you prefer as you gain experience. You might even decide to have different length axes for different climbs.  There is always a tradeoff. A shorter axe is lighter, but a longer axe will hit the snow sooner.

As a side note, be very careful in considering an ultralight ice axe. They are specialized tools that are often times best left to very experienced climbers. An aluminum spike may seem like a good idea in the store, but you may curse its inability to plunge into firm snow on the mountain!

Have fun, and be safe, and let me know if you have any questions.

Richard Bothwell

Outdoor Adventure Club